Navratri in Ujjain: Harsiddhi Shaktipeeth, Gadhkalika and the City’s Devi Temples

Ujjain is known for the Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga, but it is counted among the Shaktipeeths as well, and the tradition holds that where a Jyotirlinga and a Shaktipeeth stand together the place is doubly sacred. In Navratri the city’s Devi temples are decorated, lit and crowded from early morning until late at night. This guide describes them as places to visit; darshan at each is free and needs no booking.

In many traditions the nine nights are kept in three parts — the first three for Durga, the middle three for Lakshmi, the last three for Saraswati. For families who want a puja performed in their name this Navratri, Maa Lakshmi Puja is a private puja: performed for your family alone, with the sankalp in your name and gotra, on the date you choose.

A short walk from Mahakaleshwar, beside Rudra Sagar, stands Harsiddhi Mata, where the elbow of Sati is said to have fallen. The Devi is seen here as Annapurna, between Mahalakshmi and Mahasaraswati, and she is remembered as the deity of King Vikramaditya. In the courtyard rise two tall deep stambhs — lamp pillars from the Maratha period, each set with hundreds of lamp holders. They are lit at the evening aarti, and in Navratri on every night: young men climb the pillars to light them by hand, and within minutes both towers are alight. It is the sight most visitors remember. Reach the courtyard before sunset to find a place to stand.

On the older side of the city stands Gadhkalika, the Kalika worshipped — by tradition — by the poet Kalidasa, who is said to have received his gift of learning through her grace. The temple is small and old, and far quieter than Harsiddhi for most of the year; in Navratri it draws large crowds, particularly students. It combines well with the nearby Kal Bhairav and Bhartrihari caves.

Chamunda Mata stands at a busy crossing in the middle of the city and is the temple most residents visit daily in Navratri. Nagarkot ki Rani, on the old city’s edge, is regarded as the guardian Devi of Ujjain’s ancient fortification. Bhukhi Mata, across the Shipra, is tied to the legends of Vikramaditya. All three hold special decoration and garba or bhajan evenings through the nine nights.

• Dates: Navratri 2026 begins on 11 October; Durga Ashtami is on 19 October, Navami runs into the morning of the 20th, and Dussehra is on 20 October — see the day-by-day dates. The 19th and 20th are the most crowded days.
• A workable day: Mahakaleshwar in the early morning; Gadhkalika and Kal Bhairav before noon; rest in the afternoon; Harsiddhi before sunset for the lamp pillars; Ram Ghat for the Shipra aarti afterwards.
• Getting about: Harsiddhi is walkable from Mahakaleshwar. For the others take an auto or e-rickshaw; parking near the temples is scarce in Navratri.
• Stay: book early. October is pleasant, and the festival fills the city.

The rest of the city is covered in places to visit in Ujjain and the Mahakal darshan guide.

Many families who cannot travel in Navratri have a Devi anushthan performed in Ujjain in their name instead. We do not arrange darshan; what our pandits perform is the puja itself. For Navratri that is the Navchandi — nine recitations of the Durga Saptashati with havan and kanya pujan, performed by five pandits in Ujjain, with the sankalp taken in the family’s name and gotra. Details: Navchandi Durga Puja.